Tour groups staying outside the city never experience the real Venice. Staying in Venice allows you to wander the Strada Nova or take a walk in a deserted San Marco square near the close of the day, watch the older generations enjoying an ombra (a small glass of wine) together and listen to them "chiacchierare" (gossip) while the children play in the small squares.
The children play in the small squares until called home for dinner or sent home by the ever vigilant nonno or nonna (grandmothers or grandfathers). I love hearing the scolding from the stores as the kids zip by on their skate boards, "Did you do your homework?" "Did your mother say you could play?" While my Venetian born friends say Venice is too small, its this safety and security of knowing your neighbors, the kids on the street that also draws me to Venice.
Unless it is summer or carnival, plan to eat fairly early and then get lost in a city that in no way resembles the way it looked during the day. When the stores close their windows with the traditional metal awnings that roll down, the streets begin to look as they did hundreds of years ago. Its a city you can get lost in, but not for long as it encompasses only 2 by 3 miles (or 457 square kilometers). In the dimly lit streets you can imagine yourself wandering the small streets and alleyways as the Venetians did hundreds of years ago. When the fog rolls in, it cloaks the city in mystery. (Hint: Corte means it does not go through (like Court).
Venice is vibrant and alive in the early morning as the workers stop by the bar for a quick espresso. The locals get up early and grocery stores are open by 8, the fish market much earlier. The colors are ever changing in Venice with the position of the sun as it bounces off the water, so it is one of the best times to make pictures in Venice. The locals are busy setting up the vegetable markets, shopping at the fish market. If you love the little croissants or pastries baked right in the local bar, best get there early or you'll miss your favorite.
Top 10 Things to Do in Venice
1. Talk to the locals! They are wonderful people.
2. Drink Prosecco sitting outside in Piazza San Marco listening to the orchestra. There are 3 or 4 playing on any given night in the summer. Its expensive but worth it, start saving your Euro as it will run about 50. If there are 4 of you, buy the bottle of prosecco, youll save in the long run.
3. Ride the Vaporetto # 1 completely through the Grand Canal at night. Begin at Piazzale Roma. At night you can gaze into the interior of the lighted palaces along the canal. If you are really into adventure, get off at San Marco and see if you can find your way back walking to where you are staying.
4. Ride completely around the lagoon on a sunny day in one of the larger boats. The line LN begins at Fondamenta Nova and ends in San Marco or vice versa. If you have time, you can get off in Burano and wander through this colorful island, catching a later vaporetto to complete your journey.
5. Go to Carnevale Venezia once in your life. Dress up, Enjoy the crowds and eat fritelle, which are only available during Carnival, from early January until the beginning of Lent.
6. Eat Gelato in an outside gelateria on Lido along Santa Maria Isabella. We recommend also the little pasticceria by the fountain. It has outside tables and serves prosecco, wine, coffee and pastries, what more is there?
7. Eat cichetti (small snacks) at your favorite bar with the locals. (Like the Vedova just off the CadOro Boat Stop .) There one in every neighborhood to be found by walking around and peering in the barcari (back street bars) until you see the locals gathering.
8. Walk across the pontoon bridge at Redentore. Ok so you must be there on the 3rd Saturday of July to enjoy this tradition and the night's fireworks with thousands of boats in the basin in front of San Marco.
9. Take a trip across the canal in a traghetto (You stand up and are rowed across the canal. It saves time and is what all the locals do).
10. Have a drink at the Bar on Hilton on Guidecca. It's pricey and difficult to get to, but the view is pure art. (The Hilton occupies the old Mulino Stucky a flour mill built at the end of the 19th Century. It was built entirely of brick and employed 1,500 workers, closing in the 1950s. The restoration maintains much of the character of the old factory. )
11. Visit the Fish Market, it is open by 7 in the morning which is when the restaurants and locals come to buy the seafood and produce for the days meals. (DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING!)
13. Order a Spritz with Aperol, the local truly Venetian drink. (Wine, aperol and soda) It will improve your day.
(Ok so there are more than 10 Thats Venice!)
4 Things NOT to EVER DO.
1. NEVER: Sit on the steps anywhere, not on a bridge, not at a church, not on a boat (well you get it). These are peoples homes, businesses or religious buildings. And especially never lie down in any of these places.
2. NEVER: Block the boat stop entrance, too bad you dont know if it is your boat. Locals know which boat to catch, but if you are blocking the way.they cant get home to cook dinner, they cant get to school to pick up their children or they could miss their doctors appointment. Its their only method of transportation. The boat stop at Santa Lucia (Ferrovia) is the worst for this as tourist have just arrived. I'll give you one BIG hint! Look at which way the boat is pointed if you dont want to go in that direction, its probably not your boat. There are a couple of exceptions on this, namely Fondamenta Nova & Murano where boats run in two directions.
3. NEVER: Throw ANYTHING into the canals! (Nevermind that some locals still do, perhaps we cant retrain them.)
9 Comments
vivian Oliva
Excellent. I love Venice.
Marnie Rourke
I am astounded and dismayed that you mention none of the great places of art and architecture in Venice. You could have simply had this as one category. Why didn't you recommend enjoying the best and most unusual pasta dishes you will ever find anywhere? And I cannot believe that you didn't list taking a trip to Murano. There are beads there that you will never find anywhere else and they are far less expensive than those that you will find in Venice proper. For instance I bought an incredibl
VBS
This is only one of our recommendations on Venice, we were asked for things NOT in tour books. The museums and architecture go without stating. As for beads: You will never find a more extensive selection, collection and variety (and not have to worry if you are buying chinese or indian) than our website: www.venetianbeadshop.com We work with more than 40 individual artists to achieve this and have cultivated them over 20 years of buying millions of beads.
Helen Goldman
Lovely write up! It makes me want to go back and very soon!
Lisa M
Excellent suggestions! I love that you didn't mention the big sites, but some lovely, quiet ways to enjoy a day in Venice in a local setting. Whenever anyone mentions they're going, I recommend getting lost. You'll see the true beauty of everyday Venice, and...you can't go THAT far - you're on an island!
Judith Glassman
Thank you Brenda! I have never been to Venice and your vibrant word pictures, full of life and love, make me crave it. VBS provides the best of the best. Brenda rules! Love, Judith
VBS
Judith, You make my day. We truly miss our upper west side neighbors. You could give us an insiders "what to do in New York!" (Besides go to a bead show!)
dora
Awesome! I'm going to be in Venice in Sept, will take this list w/ me. Thanks!
VBS
Thanks, September is one of the best months to visit, kids gone back to school, most tourist back home and the weather is perfect. Check back before you leave, I am working on a list of great bars,for coffee of course :>) and places to get a sandwich (panini). And a few other tips about Venetian Food and maybe my favorite Veneto wines.